Per-Plant Yield Chart
Yield estimates below for “basic” RDWC Hydroponic Systems assume proper lighting and climate. Yield estimates for “advanced” RDWC Hydroponic Systems assume co2 supplementation with 8″ net pots and UnderCanopy Lighting.
| Setup / Phase | Strain Type | Approx. Dry Yield per Plant Site |
|---|---|---|
| Phase 1 (Basic) | Any (General Estimate) | ½ – 1 lb. |
| Phase 2 (Advanced) | Indica-Dominant Hybrids | 1 – 1¼ lb. |
| Phase 2 (Advanced) | Sativa-Dominant Hybrids | 1¼ – 1½ lb. |
| (Special Note) | Pure Sativa’s (e.g., Durban Poison) | May exceed 1½ lb. using Co2 |
Tip: If you aim for even larger yields, you’ll likely need a hydroponic system with more space between plant sites and lights to match an expanded canopy.
Recirculating Deep Water Culture (RDWC)
Why Choose RDWC?
Recirculating Deep Water Culture stands out from other hydroponic methods for several reasons:
- Oxygen-Rich Nutrient Solution
Roots get a constant supply of well-oxygenated nutrients, promoting rapid, healthy growth. - Centralized Nutrient Management
With a single control reservoir, mixing and adjusting feed is simple. - Reliability & Scalability
RDWC is widely used by growers to maximize yields.
Choosing a Current Culture RDWC Hydroponic System
In my opinion, Current Culture makes the best RDWC hydroponic system on the market, offering a range of standout features that truly elevate the growing experience. Notably, their advanced oxygen delivery method ensures plant roots receive optimal aeration for vigorous development. The automatic top-off feature simplifies nutrient and water management, while the built-in ability to drain and refill the system is included with the base setup—minimizing downtime and maintenance. All of these features work in tandem to create a highly efficient and user-friendly solution for growers seeking top-tier results. They have systems available from 4 to 12 plant sites, which covers the number of plants allowed in most states where cannabis cultivation has been legalized.
When selecting a Recirculating Deep-Water Culture (RDWC) system from Current Culture, the two key considerations are:
- How many plants you plan to grow
- Whether or not you will be supplementing with carbon dioxide (CO₂)
Choosing Co2 affects the bucket size, net pot size, and plant spacing requirements for the hydroponic system you choose.
RDWC Hydroponic Systems without CO₂ Enrichment
If you are not going to be using a CO₂-enriched environment, an 8-gallon bucket hydroponic system is a good choice. In this setup, plant growth is more moderate without the accelerated photosynthesis that added CO₂ provides. Therefore, a 25-inch plant spacing is typically sufficient. This spacing ensures each plant has enough room to develop a healthy canopy without overcrowding.
For Non-CO₂ Environments with 4, 6, 8, and 9 plant sites, use a Current Culture 8-Gallon RDWC Hydroponic System with 25″ Spacing. If you live in one of the few states that allows you to grow 12 plants, make sure to get the 8-Gallon 12-plant 3-row configuration if you want it to fit inside a 10×10 grow tent.
- Bucket Size: 8 gallons
- Plant Spacing: 25 inches
RDWC Hydroponic Systems with CO₂-Enrichment
In a CO₂-enhanced environment, plants tend to grow faster and develop larger canopies. To accommodate this extra growth, a 13-gallon bucket is preferable. The increased volume allows for a more robust root system and better nutrient uptake. Additionally, 30-inch plant spacing is recommended to give each plant ample room to spread out and fully leverage the benefits of higher CO₂ levels.
CO₂-Enriched Environments should use a Current Culture 13-Gallon RDWC Hydroponic System with 30″ Spacing. If you live in one of the few states that allows you to grow 12 plants, make sure to get the 13-Gallon 12-plant 3-row configuration if you want it to fit inside a 10×10 grow tent.
- Bucket Size: 13 gallons
- Plant Spacing: 30 inches
Current Culture RDWC Features Included
- UC Float Valve Kit: Lets you connect the system reservoir to a large external water tank for automatic top-ups.
- Reservoir Adapter Kit (RAK): Speeds up refills after flushing—just pump water in from your storage tank.
- Drain-Out Valve (DOV): If you have a floor drain at or below bucket level, you can gravity-drain the system. If your drain is higher, use the Optional Under Current Pump-Out Kit – $156.95. This pump connects to the DOV, allowing you to drain the entire system with a flip of a switch, even if you have to go uphill.
Choosing an External Water Storage Tank
You need a tank that can hold at least enough water to refill your entire system at once. Current Culture offers:
- Conical Bottom Reservoirs (30G, 75G, 100G, 150G)
- Doorway Reservoirs (200G, 300G, 500G)
They require ~4–6 weeks delivery, so plan ahead. Store RO water in the tank so you can flush or top off without waiting on your filter to produce enough water.
Tent Size and Room Requirements
When using Recirculating Deep-Water Culture (RDWC) systems, you’ll need enough space inside your tent to accommodate plants, as well as critical equipment like fans, air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and filters and still leave some space for maintenance. Hydroponic systems come in 4, 6, 8, 9, and 12-plant configurations and they can fit in one of two tent sizes.
It’s also wise to keep about 40 square feet of open space outside the tent for mixing nutrients, storing supplies, and possibly for housing an external water tank. This ensures you have room to maneuver comfortably outside of the tent.
Quick tips:
- Storage Rack – Keep nutrients & tools on a sturdy shelf outside the tent.
- Intake Air – Plan how to bring in fresh air (often via a window).
- Exhaust Air – Plan how to get rid of hot air from air conditioners or ducted and cooled HID lights (using a second window, possibly a crawlspace or attic).
Recommended Tent Sizes
5×9 Grow Tent (4 Plants)
For a 4-plant RDWC system, a 5×9 grow tent offers enough space to place your plants on one side while keeping the reservoir and equipment (e.g., air conditioner, dehumidifier) on the other. This setup ensures you have room to work around the plants.
Recommended Grow Tent:
Gorilla 5×9 Grow Tent – (Dimensions are 60″ x 108″ x 83″) – This grow tent comes with a 1′ extension kit, bringing the total height to about 8′ (7′-11″) which is the available height many homes. If your ceiling height permits, you can also purchase a 2′ extension separately to reach 10′ in height (measure carefully to ensure your space can accommodate the extra height).
10×10 Grow Tent (6, 8, 9, or 12 Plants)
For RDWC systems with 6, 8, 9, or 12 plant sites, a 10×10 grow tent is generally recommended. This larger footprint accommodates all your buckets and equipment inside the tent, while still providing some space to move around for maintenance.
- 6, 8, or 9 Plant Systems: The reservoir can typically stay inside the tent along with the other gear.
- 12 Plant System: Due to the larger number of buckets, the reservoir should be placed outside the tent. This allows space for an air conditioner, dehumidifier, and a small walkway for maintenance.
Recommended Grow Tent:
Gorilla 10′ x 10′ Grow Tent – (Dimensions are 120″ x 120″ x 83″) – This grow tent comes with a 1′ extension kit, bringing the total height to about 8′ (7′-11″) which is the available height many homes. If your ceiling height permits, you can also purchase a 2′ extension separately to reach 10′ in height (measure carefully to ensure your space can accommodate the extra height).
Reverse Osmosis (RO) System
on is critical for hydroponics if your tap water has high ppm (200+). It clears out unwanted minerals, salts, and contaminants, giving you more “room” for beneficial nutrients:
- Recommended:
Hydrologic Stealth-RO300 (~$337.50)
Produces ~100 gallons/day, removes chlorine, extends filter life with a KDF85 filter. - If water pressure is low, add a booster pump to maximize output.
Use your RO water to fill a water storage tank for quick system refills and auto top-offs.
Lighting
Achieving heavy, top-shelf buds starts with the right lighting approach. In cannabis cultivation, two main lighting technologies dominate today: LED and HID (High Intensity Discharge). Each has its own pros and cons, and both can produce fantastic results when managed correctly.
Comparing LED and HID
In cannabis cultivation, you’ll primarily see two types of lights:
- LED (Light Emitting Diode)
- HID (High Intensity Discharge), which typically refers to HPS (High Pressure Sodium) and CMH (Ceramic Metal Halide) in modern grows.
Below is a quick-reference chart comparing the two:
Pros and Cons of LED and HID Lighting
| Pros and Cons | LED | HID (HPS or CMH) |
|---|---|---|
| Initial Cost | Higher upfront investment | Generally lower initial cost |
| Running Costs | – ~50% less electricity vs. HID – Less heat | – Higher electricity usage – More heat |
| Cooling Needs | Typically, minimal or moderate | Often significant (especially multiple fixtures) |
| Lifespan | Diodes can last 5+ years with minimal intensity drop | Bulbs need periodic replacement (HPS ~1/year) |
| Flower Timing | Plants often finish ~1 week earlier | Plants may flower 5–7 days longer (vs. LED) |
| Bud Quality | High THC potential, full-spectrum available – Some debate over density vs. HPS | Classic, proven yields with great density – CMH broad spectrum, but runs hot |
| Spectrum | Can be tailored (full-spectrum, UV, IR options) | HPS: Warm/red spectrum CMH: Broader “sun-like” |
| Maintenance | Virtually plug-and-play once installed | Regularly check/replace bulbs and reflectors |
Additional Notes & Experience
- Having used both for over 5 years and multiple strains, LED and HID have proven equally capable of producing potent, frosty buds.
- The one difference I have noticed is flowering speed: LED-grown plants often mature close to a week faster than HID-grown plants of the same strain.
- There’s a persistent myth that HPS yields “denser” buds. In reality, proper environmental control (especially managing temperature and humidity with correct VPD) is what truly influences bud density.
HPS remains the most widely used HID technology for flowering—it emits a warm, red-heavy spectrum that cannabis loves in bloom. CMH, on the other hand, offers a broader spectrum, is more efficient than older metal halide lamps, and provides excellent color rendering. However, both HPS and CMH produce substantial heat that must be managed with ducting, inline fans, or portable AC units.
Effective Lighting Is Critical
Strong lighting is so crucial that you’ll often see a rule of thumb citing “1 gram per watt” of lighting in yield potential. While not exact science, it’s a useful rough guide to set expectations.
Many factors (strain genetics, grower skill, nutrient regimen, environment) also influence yield. In fact, you could run the best lights in the world, but if your temperature or humidity is off, you’ll see lackluster results. Conversely, an older or less-efficient light can still yield well if your environment is dialed in.
Ultimately, both LED and HID can produce spectacular yields and top-tier bud quality when everything else (nutrition, environment, etc.) is optimized. The choice often comes down to personal preference, budget, and grow room logistics.
LED Recommendation
- Growers Choice ROI-E900 ($1099)
Dimmable, high PPFD (2340–2600 µmol/s)—great for CO₂ setups.
| Determining the Number of LED Lights Required | |
|---|---|
| No. of Plants | Number of LED Lights |
| 4 | 1 Light |
| 6 | 2 Lights |
| 8 | 2 Lights |
| 9 | 4 Lights |
| 12 | 4 Lights |
HID Recommendations
HID lights have been the industry standard for many years. While their popularity is declining due to advances in LED, many growers still swear by them.
High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
For HPS Lighting in a grow tent I would recommend using Nanolux DE-Chill 1000w DE HPS Air Cooled Light that’s cooled using 8” Ducting and an AC Infinity Inline Fan that has an adjustable air flow and is super quiet. Because it is a “DE” or double-ended bulb you can overclock the bulb to 1250watts! During the vegetative stage I use a 1000w 6K DE MH Bulb with this HPS Lamp for the vegetative stage and then switch to a 1000w 2K DE HPS Bulb for the flowering stage. You can use 2 enclosed 1000w HPS Lamps for 4 plants, 3 enclosed HPS Lamps for 6 plants or 4 enclosed HPS Lamps for 9 plants.
| Determining the Number of HPS Lights Required | |
|---|---|
| No. of Plants | Number of HPS Lights |
| 4 | 1 Light |
| 6 | 2 Lights |
| 8 | 3 Lights |
| 9 | 4 Lights |
| 12 | 6 Lights |
Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)
- Newer technology with improved color rendering (makes it easier to spot plant issues).
- One CMH lamp can be used from veg to flower with different bulbs:
- 6K or 4K for early growth/veg.
- 3K for flowering.
- 10K “finishing bulb” for the last two weeks to boost trichome/THC development.
- Tends to be very hot.
Combining HPS and CMH
Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) CMH lighting produces a lot of heat, making it suitable for smaller setups like a 4-plant tent with just one CMH light. For larger setups, it’s recommended to use no more than one-third CMH lights combined with two-thirds HPS lights due to the heat generated.
Supplemental UVB
Why UV?
While standard fixtures cover red/blue/orange, UV (especially UVB 280–320 nm) can greatly boost trichome/THC levels and terpene production. This mimics sunlight stress that triggers extra resin as a defense.
UVA vs. UVB
- UVA (320–400 nm): Less harmful, still promotes some metabolite production.
- UVB (280–320 nm): Stronger impact on THC levels, but more leaf stress if overused.
Implementing T5 UVB in Your Grow Tent
- Use two 4-foot long T5 54watt fixtures with two AgroMax Pure UV T5 Fluorescent tubes for each 5×5 of grow space.
- Connect them all to a power strip that is connected to a TrolMaster DSP-1 Programmable Module. The DSP-1 is basically a user programmable outlet with a built-in timer that is one of several controllable “devices” that can be added to the TrolMaster (ECS) Environmental Control System, in this case turning lights on for just minutes each hour and repeating this cycle a number of times daily.
- Consider that an inexpensive device such as a battery-operated LED Strobe Light from Amazon with its battery terminals soldered to the power leads of an old AC/DC power brick will ensure that you get a visual warning when the UVB light is in operation.
| Determining the Number of 4 ft. T5 UVB Light Fixtures | |
|---|---|
| No. of Plants | No. of T5 Light Fixtures |
| 4 | 2 |
| 6 | 3 |
| 8 | 4 |
| 9 | 5 |
| 12 | 8 |
Climate Control & Air Circulation
Proper climate control is as important as correct nutrition and lighting. Maintaining stable temperatures, relative humidity (RH), and airflow ensures your plants grow vigorously and produce dense, high-quality buds for you that don’t end up succumbing to bud rot because of this density. Below are the key components:
1. Air Conditioners
When growing indoors (especially with HID lighting or multiple LED fixtures), heat buildup is a major concern. Keeping canopy temperatures around 75°F ensures tight, dense buds. Temperatures above 80°F often leads to buds losing their density, and above 90°F can result in very fluffy, poor-quality flowers.
Portable AC Units
- BTU Recommendations: Calculate total watts for lights, dehumidifiers, and other major equipment to estimate how many BTUs of cooling you need or use the estimated number of air conditioners based on my personal experience using these air conditioners under multiple configurations, with LED or HID type grow lighting.
- Single vs. Dual Hose: Always opt for dual hose portable AC units for higher efficiency.
- Example: A Whynter 14K BTU Dual-Hose Portable Air Conditioner ~$529.99 on Amazon). Reliable, popular on Amazon, and personally tested two units in multiple grow tents for years.
- Quantity Needed:
- 5×10 tent with LED or HID: Usually 1 unit (15K BTU) and if you want to grow in thru the peak summer months you may need 2 of these air conditioners.
- 10×10 tent: With 6 plants will need at least 2 units and 3 units if you want to grow during the peak summer months or you are using HID type lighting especially CMH lighting in your grow tent. With 9 plants in a 10×10 tent you will need 3 units which may be enough depending on how hot it is during the summer in your area. If you are using 4 enclosed 1000w DE HPS lamps you have a good chance of 3 units being sufficient cooling for 9 plants.
| Determining the Number of 14k BTU A/C Units | |
|---|---|
| No. of Plants | No. of A/C Units |
| 4 | 1 |
| 6 | 2 |
| 8 | 3 |
| 9 | 3 |
| 12 | 3 |
2. Dehumidifiers
Once plants move into mid-to-late veg (and definitely by flowering), humidity often rises sharply due to increased transpiration.
- Why They’re Critical:
- High humidity in flowering = higher risk of mold and bud rot.
- Dehumidifiers, paired with AC units, help maintain an optimal VPD.
- Condensate Pump: Dehumidifiers produce a lot of water. Connect the drain hose to a condensate pump, so you don’t have to empty the collection tray constantly.
- Temporary “Leaf Removal” Trick: Removing a few large fan leaves at the bottom of your plant can reduce transpiration if your dehumidifier is almost keeping up but use this technique sparingly because large fan leaves are important for photosynthesis.
- Equipment Required: For 5×10 Grow Tent with 2 to 4 hydroponic sites you will need a single dehumidifier like the Aiusevo 52-pint Dehumidifier – $229.99 For a 10×10 Grow Tent with 6 to 9 plants you can get two of the 52 pint dehumidifiers and manage them together with a power strip connected to one TrolMaster Humidity Device or get a single much larger dehumidifier like the Active Air 110 pint dehumidifier – $736.99 should work for up to 6 to 9 plants in a 10×10 Grow Tent.
| Determining Size of the Dehumidifier | |
|---|---|
| No. of Plants | Dehumidifier (in Pints) |
| 4 | 50 pints |
| 6 | 60 pints |
| 8 | 100 pints |
| 9 | 100 pints |
| 12 | 150 pints |
3. Condensate Pumps
- Most portable AC units generate some wastewater; dehumidifiers generate a lot of wastewater.
- Condensate pumps like this Little Giant 1/50 Horsepower Condensate Pump $64.05 also includes some vinyl tubing with it, can be used for all of your air conditioners and dehumidifiers to remove wastewater drainage from your grow tent.
4. Humidifiers
Ironically, while you’re often battling high humidity in late veg and flower, you might need to add humidity in early veg and flowering to maintain ideal VPD levels, especially if you’re running multiple AC units.
- Recommended Units: I have found the relatively inexpensive AC Infinity 7L Humidifier – $159 each, to be a very reliable unit especially when plumbed using a float valve float as shown here to automatically keep it topped off with RO water from the water storage container. You will need more than one unit to keep up with the demands of the system.
- You will need two units for a 5×10 tent; 3 units for a 10×10.
- Auto-Refill Float Valve: Drill a hole and install a float valve inside the humidifier’s water reservoir. Connect to a larger RO water storage tank via gravity feed.
- Why RO Water?
- Prevents mineral buildup on ultrasonic plates, prolonging the humidifier’s life and performance.
| Determining the Number of 7L Humidifiers | |
|---|---|
| No. of Plants | No. of 7L Humidifiers |
| 4 | 1 |
| 6 | 2 |
| 8 | 2 |
| 9 | 3 |
| 12 | 3 |
Environmental Control System (ECS) TrolMaster HCS-1
- Purpose
- Provides reliable on/off scheduling for lights.
- Monitors and manages temperature, humidity, and (in advanced setups) CO₂.
- Automates dimming (whenever it exceeds preset temperature) and can shut off lights should it reach a second temperature threshold to prevent overheating, rather than using the light fixture’s built-in failsafe.
- Includes built-in temperature, humidity, and light sensors.
- Replaces unreliable basic timers; helps maintain precise 12/12 or 18/6 schedules (so your plants don’t get stuck with lights on too long).
- Night/Day (light sensor) sensor ensures the ECS applies the correct settings (humidity, CO₂, etc.) for the plants day or nighttime period.
- Why This Matters
- Maintaining ideal temperature and humidity (VPD) is critical for growing high-quality, medicinal-grade cannabis in buds that are dense as opposed to fluffy buds.
- You can expand the ECS later in (Phase 2) adding a CO₂ sensor and device station.
10V (0–10V) Lighting Technology
- Key to Automation
- Allows your ECS (like TrolMaster HCS-1) to dim lights based on temperature thresholds.
- Provides the backbone to turn lights on/off, regulate humidity, and eventually manage CO₂.
- Examples
- LED: Many modern LED fixtures have 0–10V ports for external dimming.
- HID: 0–10V ballasts can be dimmed remotely when temperatures spike.
10V Wiring & Connectivity
- RJ12 “Phone-Style” Cables
- ECS modules (sensors, device stations) daisy-chain using simple 6-wire phone cables (always included).
- There are usually more device stations than there are sensors. If you have a number of device stations, you can use a TrolMaster Hub to reduce cabling, make cabling neater and simplify the setup.
- Device Stations
- Sensors measure conditions (temperature, humidity, CO₂).
- Devices are “smart” outlets for powering on/off humidifiers, dehumidifiers, fans, or CO₂ tanks/regulators.
TrolMaster HCS-1 Environmental Control System (ECS), Lighting Adapters and Device Stations
The HCS-1 is modular, so you only add the parts you need for your setup:
- TrolMaster HCS-1 Environmental Control System (ECS) Main Module – $399.95
- Comes with temperature/humidity and basic light sensor.
- Central brain of your automation.
- Lighting Adapter(s) Choose one or more depending on your lighting needs. Each ECS comes with Lighting Group A and Lighting Group B for two separate groups of lighting.
- TrolMaster LMA-14 LED or HID 10v Adapter – $69.95: For controlling 0–10V LED or HID fixtures. These 10v type light are the type of lights we have included under LED and HID Lighting examples here in this guide. The connections look like a 6-wire phone jack for In and Out 10v control of lights in a daisy chained fashion using typical 6 wire cable included with the Lighting Adapter.
- TrolMaster Programmable DSP-1 Outlet – $85.95: For lights that will not be dimmable. (e.g., T5 UVB Fixtures) or other equipment (on/off scheduling only).
- TrolMaster DSH-1 Humidity Device Station(s) – $85.95 Each (Need 2)
- You’ll need two Humidity Device Stations, one for the dehumidifier and one for the humidifier.
- If you have multiple humidifiers, connect them all to a single power strip, then into one device station. Same for dehumidifiers.
Nutrients and Supplements in RDWC Systems
Growing cannabis in an RDWC hydroponic system can be complex—especially with the vast array of nutrients and supplements available. Over the past five years, I’ve developed two specific feeding schedules based on my experience with different nutrient regimens and supplements.
Why House & Garden?
These schedules are built around House & Garden’s product line, which delivers outstanding yields, particularly with its PK enhancers. Unlike PGR-based stimulators, which strip buds of trichomes and aroma (and pose potential health risks, including cancer), House & Garden’s approach maintains both quality and potency and increases flowers and bud size.
Simplified Environmental Management
A successful RDWC grow isn’t just about nutrients—it also requires managing changing environmental variables week by week. That’s why I’ve included all key environmental factors directly in the feeding schedule. Everything from PPFD to VPD is laid out alongside nutrient dosages because they all impact plant health and growth at different stages. Having everything in one place makes it easier to manage the system without switching between multiple sources or having to look things up online constantly.
Key Features of These Feeding Schedules
- CO₂ Considerations – Nutrient uptake and overall feeding strategies depend on whether or not you’re injecting CO₂.
- Complete Nutrient & Supplement Solution – Built around House & Garden’s core nutrients, plus carefully selected supplements for optimal plant health.
- Designed for RDWC Systems – Tailored to high-oxygen environments, allowing for stronger feeding regimens compared to other hydro setups.
Two Feeding Schedule Versions: CO₂ vs. non-CO₂
Non-CO₂ Feeding Schedule
- Designed for RDWC growers not using CO₂.
- Moderate nutrient levels.
- Daytime temps: ~75–77°F.
- Light intensity: ~900–1000 PPFD.
CO₂ Feeding Schedule
- For RDWC systems injecting up to 1500 ppm CO₂.
- Higher light intensity: Up to 1800 PPFD.
- Higher daytime temps: ~78–80°F.
- More aggressive nutrient dosing due to faster metabolic rates.
Both feeding schedules are available for download in Excel (.xlsx) or PDF (.pdf) formats in the Tools & Resources section of this website.
The schedules cover a 15-week period, consisting of a 6-week vegetative phase, an 8-week flowering phase, and an additional week for flushing. You can choose the number of days for the final flush, extending it if needed while waiting for amber trichomes to appear, indicating the optimal harvest time.
Nutrients & Supplements: Complete List
The feeding schedules detail precisely which items to add each week—House & Garden’s base nutrients (A & B), bloom boosters, plus additional supplements from various providers to enhance aroma, resin production, and overall plant health. A complete product list (with explanations) is provided below explains what each product does and why it’s beneficial in RDWC.
Purpose: The base nutrient system A for RDWC (Recirculating Deep-Water Culture) hydro setups, providing NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) for strong vegetative growth.
Purpose: The base nutrient system B for RDWC (Recirculating Deep-Water Culture) hydro setups, providing NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) for strong vegetative growth.
Purpose: Prevents algae buildup in pipes and tubing by keeping salts and contaminants from depositing.
Purpose: Promotes large, healthy root systems, which become vital for heavy bud production during flowering.
Purpose: Assists in overall plant health, vigor, and possibly stress resistance.
Purpose: Algae-based extract that boosts nutrient uptake and overall plant vigor. vegetative growth.
Purpose: Helps break down dead root matter, recycling it into usable nutrients for the plant.
Purpose: Extra nitrogen for rapid leaf and stem growth, especially early in vegetative phase.
Purpose: Humic acids enhance nutrient uptake at the root zone.
Purpose: Redirects sugars from leaves to buds, leading to larger, sweeter flowers.
Purpose: High phosphorus and potassium supplement used once during week 5 of a typical 8-week flowering period to fuel bud growth.
Purpose: A premium (and somewhat expensive) bloom stimulator that causes “stacking” of flowers for significantly larger yields.
Purpose: Encourages production of bud site formation and is used during the first two weeks of flowering only.
Purpose: A terpene enhancer made of a sulfur rich formula that improve aroma, flavor, and resin production.
Purpose: A terpene enhancer that supports nutrient uptake while providing a unique blend of carbs, amino acids, and other organic compounds to boost aroma and flavor.
Purpose: A highly concentrated terpene enhancer that promotes abundant trichome production over terpene levels resulting in a frostier appearance, with more aroma and higher potency.
Purpose: A finishing solution added during your flush to help remove excess salts and nutrients.
Purpose: A sugar-based supplement is one of the few things you can still give your plant during the flush before harvest, and it provides your plant with some carbs.